Herreshoff #193303es Skylark

"[Item Description:] Correspondence with bills (from Ichabod T. Williams and Sons, Hammacher Schlemmer, Nevins Inc, Ratsey & Lapthorn, HMCo) and letters relating to the building and commissioning of William Greenough's dinghy #193303es SKYLARK, also about making a model of the schooner #711s VENTURE ex-VENTURA) for Willliam Greenough." (Source: MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.053. Correspondence. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1933 to 1934.)
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"[Item Description:] Handwritten 'Specifications for 14ft dinghy' [#193303es SKYLARK] detailing keel, stem, transom, transom knees, timbers, planking, sheerstrake [with sketch], clamps, seat stringers, centreboard slot, centreboard casing, centreboard, thwarts, thwart knees, stern bench, foot boards, ceiling, mast step, mast, yard, and boom." (Source: Herreshoff, N.G. (creator). Specifications. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. No date (ca1933-11).)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Typed signed letter:] At the request of Mr. Hammond, I am sending you construction and arrangement plan of the 14ft dinghy designed by Mr. Uffa Fox.
Mr. Hammond would like you to return this to him when you have finished with it.
Yours very truly, ... [This eventually led to the building of William Greenough's dinghy #193303es SKYLARK.]" (Source: Pardee, Judith (Secr. Paul Hammond). Letter to Greenough, William. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.053. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1933-11-10.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Unsigned carbon copy of a typed letter: With handwritten note in ballpoint pen '5/29/50 Adm. Cochran. Plans filed in plans file.] I enjoyed seeing your workshop so much when I was in Bristol about six weeks ago [on September 30, 1933 as per NGH diary] with Mr. Strong that it stimulated me to try to build a fourteen-foot dinghy in my house here in New York during the winter. [This will become #193303es SKYLARK.]
I went up yesterday to see Mr. Nevins and Mr. [Rufus] Murray [former HMCo foreman] to arrange with them about providing the lumber for me, which they said they would gladly do, and give me all the technical help that I required. Mr. Murray suggested to me that you had made plans for a fourteen foot sailing dinghy for Paul Hammond [#1203s CYGNET] which was built at the shops there. I am wondering if you would be willing to let me have these plans of course strictly for my own use. I have always thought the Herreshoff rowing dinghies of which I have had two are the most beautiful models that could be made.
Yours sincerely, ..." (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to N.G. Herreshoff. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1933-11-11.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Typed unsigned (copy) letter:] Thank you very much for the use of Uffa Fox's dinghy pkans, which I return to you herewith.
Yours sincerely, ... [This eventually led to the building of William Greenough's dinghy #193303es SKYLARK.]" (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to Hammond, Paul. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.053. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1933-11-13.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Handwritten letter in ink:] It is interesting to know you contemplate building a small boat [#193303es SKYLARK] at your home and I will be pleased to help you with the design and give you what information I can.
I consider 14ft a very good size for a single-handed sailing dinghy. I recently made the model and sail plan for such a craft, but I prefer moderately over-hanging ends, so it was made 15ft extreme length and 14ft a little above waterline it is for 5ft 7 1/2in breadth, and 21in deep. I also have a model [two models: Model 1019 and Model 1223] I made for my Bermuda friends for the famous 14 foot Bermuda Racing Class, for a boat, [Page 2]to take place of the champion 'KILDEE' that was burned in a fire at St. Georges. This craft has not yet been built. This model is for 14ft extreme, 5ft 0in wide and 22 1/2in deep. The Bermudians donot have sail area limit so carry over 400 sqft in main & jib, beside a large spinaker, having 6 men for crew, a plate keel with lead bulb, that is removable. A complete racing machine, but the hull, it with side decking, is good type.
Would you intend th dinghy to comply to the Canadian Rules or British Rules, for racing, or just a good comfortable fast sailing dinghy? I have formulated a set of rules for such a class that does not yet exist.
Paul Hammond's boat [#1203s CYGNET] is 17ft 3in long, 5ft 6in wide and 21in deep.
Sincerely yours ..." (Source: Herreshoff, N.G. Letter to Greenough, William. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1933-11-14.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Unsigned carbon copy of a typed letter:] I am very grateful to you for your letter of November 14th [1933] and your willingness to help me in building the dinghy [#193303es SKYLARK] in my house here.
What I want to build is not a racing machine at all, nor a dinghy which will comply with any particular racing rules but just a good, comfortable sailing dinghy which I can keep at Gooseberry Island in Newport and use for sailing, rowing and fishing. For the latter purpose I shall probably use an outboard motor. I very much prefer a boat like the beautiful Herreshoff rowing dinghies with moderately overhanging ends and my only doubt is whether I should build a fourteen or fifteen-foot boat of this type or a twelve-foot boat.
Paul Hammond tells me that the Frostbite dinghies are twelve-foot dinghies, and possibly a twelve-foot boat would be quite large enough for my purposes. If you would let me have the plans of the one you refer to which is fifteen feet extreme length and fourteen feet a little above the water line and five feet seven and one-half inches breadth, I might have the plan reduced so as to build a boat about thirteen feet over all from it. However, while the difference in size between a boat approximately twelve feet long and one approximately fifteen feet long is substantial, in either case I shall have to lower the boat out the third story window when it is completed as I do not believe I could get either one of them down the stairs in the house.
I am looking forward with a great deal of pleasure to building the boat myself, even though I have neither the tools nor the ability to get out the lumber.
Yours sincerely ..." (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to N.G. Herreshoff. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1933-11-16.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Original signed typed letter:] I am very grateful to you for your letter of November 14th and your willingness to help me in building the dinghy [#193303es SKYLARK] in my house here.
What I want to build is not a racing machine at all, nor a dinghy which will comply with any particular racing rules, but just a good, comfortable sailing dinghy which I can keep at Gooseberry Island in Newport and use for sailing, rowing and fishing. For the latter purpose I shall probably use an outboard motor. I very much prefer a boat like the beautiful Herreshoff rowing dinghies with moderately overhanging ends, and my only doubt is whether I should build a fourteen or fifteen-foot boat of this type or a twelve-foot boat.
Paul Hammond tells me that the Frostbite dinghies are twelve-foot dinghies, and possibly a twelve-foot boat would be quite large enough for my purposes. If you would let me have the plans of the one you refer to which is fifteen feet extreme length and fourteen feet a little above the water line and five feet seven and one-half inches breadth, I might have the plan reduced so as to build a boat about thirteen feet over all from it. However, while the difference in size between a boat approximately twelve feet long and one approximately fifteen feet long is substantial, in either case I shall have to lower the boat out the third story window when it is completed as I do not believe I could get either one of them down the stairs in the house.
I am looking forward with a great deal of pleasure to building the boat myself, even though I have neither the tools nor the ability to get out the lumber.
Yours sincerely ..." (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to N.G. Herreshoff. Halsey C. Herreshoff Collection at the Herreshoff Marine Museum Item MR_19790. Correspondence, Folder 53. 1933-11-16.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Handwritten letter in ink:] In reply to yours of 16th [November 1933] I am inclosing sheet with 4 sizes of boats for you to select from. Considering you intend building on 3rd floor, and that you intended to use the boat [#193303es SKYLARK] for general utility purposes, it appears to me the 2nd or 3rd size for 2-3 or 4 persons, and if for 1 or 2 persons th 4th size (12ft) would be best.
I have the models for each of these, but not the drawings, and would have to make working drawings in pencil, either case, for you to work from, so it make[s] no difference to me.
The # 1 model [see Model 1124 at HMM] was made last summer to illustrate a good useful sailing dinghy, and is intended to be decked in at sides about 9in and at ends as required, wood centreboard. Rig, one or two sails. # 2 is the original model of Columbia Lifeboat made in 1899 [see Model 706 at HMM], and there has [sic] been several hundred built in 3 sizes of breadth, and in length from 16ft to 9ft, and is the type you probably had. With the depth shown it is intended to be open. # s 3 [see Model 1219 at HMM] & 4 [see Model 1323 at HMM] are new models for General Utility boats, for rowing, sailing or outboard motors. They were made recently to indicate my ideas for that type. The are to have side decking, but if desired all open should [be] 2in or 3in higher sided.
Would you intend building lap-streaked or flush planked and caulked?
Have you the tools, benches & c. for such work? It's quite a job, but an interesting one.
Yours sincerely ..." (Source: Herreshoff, N.G. Letter to Greenough, William. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1933-11-19.)
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"[Item Description:] Penciled annotated outline sketches of four sailing dinghy types [which will eventually lead to the building of #193303es SKYLARK]. 1) '14ft Sailing Dinghy. 15ft over all. 5ft 7 1/2in Breadth'. 2) 'Columbia Lifeboat with raised sheer. 14ft 7in o.a. & 4ft 8in wide'. 3) '13 1/2ft General Utility Boat. 13ft 7in o.a. 4ft 8in wide, 4ft 6in wide'. 4) '12ft General Utilty. 12ft 0in o.a.'. Sent with NGH letter to William Greenough dated November 19, 1933." (Source: Herreshoff, N.G. (creator). Sketch. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Oversize Folder, Folder Dinghy 12 & 14-Footer for William Greenough. No date (1933-11-19).)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Unsigned carbon copy of a typed letter:] Thank you very much for your letter of November 19th and the enclosed sheet with four sizes of boats for me to select from. I have made up my mind that a 13-foot boat is as large as I could conveniently build on the third floor of my house in New York. I intend to build a lap-streak boat without any side deck. I have a good many tools and can easily obtain others.
Instead of building a boat on the floor, I propose to get three or four trestles or horses and make a table out of 1-inch boards, say 15 feet long and 4 feet wide, on which I can lay down the sheer plan and half breadth and to which I can attach the molds so as to build the boat upside down. If the table is raised say two feet above the floor, this ought to bring the work within easy reaching distance.
I realize that it is quite a job, but it interests me very much, and as I expect to have the lumber, stem and keel, prepared for me by Mr. Nevins, I believe that I can get on without any machine tools.
I went down on Saturday with Paul Hammond to his place at Syosset where he has been building a 32-foot water line boat designed for him by Starling Burgess [BARNSWALLOW]. Much of the work on this boat has been done by a Norwegian named John Lunde who Paul had as Captain of the Nina. He seems to be an extremely capable boat-builder who explained to me very clearly how to lay out the plans for a lap-streak rowboat and the method of construction. He is coming in to see me next Saturday to look at my tools and the place where I expect to build the boat and advise me what I need in addition to what I have. I expect that this man will help me as occasion arises.
I have no doubt I shall make a good many mistakes, but I have plenty of time before the month of June in which the mistakes can be rectified if I can get started some time in December. In addition I have recently bought a book by a man named Patterson on the building of small boats, and in the library of the New York Yacht Club I found a very excellent book published in 1887 by Mr. W. P. Stevens[sic, i.e. Stephens] through the Forest and Stream Company. I am now trying to get a copy of this book from Mr. Stevens. I am convinced that I will have a great deal more interest and amusement in building a boat which I can use myself than in working on small models. If I were able to design boats, the making of the models would of course be more interesting.
I note that you say that Types 3 and 4 shown on your drawing should be two or three inches higher-sided if not side decked, and I also note that none of these boats has the spoon bows which some of the modern sailing dinghies seem to have. I assume that these spoon bows were given to these boats because thought to make the boats faster. I should have supposed that a boat with a higher bow would be more seaworthy.
So far as appearance of profile goes, I very much prefer the forward-reaching stem of Types 1 and 2 in your drawing to the straighter stems of Nos. 3 and 4, and I also prefer the raking stern of No. 2 to the sterns of Types 3 and 4.
If I could build a boat, say 11-1/2 feet on the water line and not over 12-1/2 feet over all on these lines, I think it would be about right. [This will become #193303es SKYLARK.]" (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to N.G. Herreshoff. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1933-11-20.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Original signed typed letter:] Thank you very much for your letter of November 19th and the enclosed sheet with four sizes of boats for me to select from. I have made up my mind that a 13-foot boat is as large as I could conveniently build on the third floor of my house in New York. I intend to build a lap-streak boat without any side deck. I have a good many tools and can easily obtain others.
Instead of building a boat on the floor, I propose to get three or four trestles or horses and make a table out of 1-inch boards, say 15 feet long and 4 feet wide, on which I can lay down the sheer plan and half breadth and to which I can attach the molds so as to build the boat upside down. If the table is raised say two feet above the floor, this ought to bring the work within easy reaching distance.
I realize that it is quite a job, but it interests me very much, and as I expect to have the lumber, stem and keel, prepared for me by Mr. Nevins, I believe that I can get on without any machine tools.
I went down on Saturday with Paul Hammond to his place at Syosset where he has been building a 32-foot water line boat designed for him by Starling Burgess [BARNSWALLOW]. Much of the work on this boat has been done by a Norwegian named John Lunde who Paul had as Captain of the Nina. He seems to be an extremely capable boat-builder who explained to me very clearly how to lay out the plans for a lap-streak rowboat and the method of construction. He is coming in to see me next Saturday to look at my tools and the place where I expect to build the boat and advise me what I need in addition to what I have. I expect that this man will help me as occasion arises.
I have no doubt I shall make a good many mistakes, but I have plenty of time before the month of June in which the mistakes can be rectified if I can get started some time in December. In addition I have recently bought a book by a man named Patterson on the building of small boats, and in the library of the New York Yacht Club I found a very excellent book published in 1887 by Mr. W. P. Stevens[sic, i.e. Stephens] through the Forest and Stream Company. I am now trying to get a copy of this book from Mr. Stevens. I am convinced that I will have a great deal more interest and amusement in building a boat which I can use myself than in working on small models. If I were able to design boats, the making of the models would of course be more interesting.
I note that you say that Types 3 and 4 shown on your drawing should be two or three inches higher-sided if not side decked, and I also note that none of these boats has the spoon bows which some of the modern sailing dinghies seem to have. I assume that these spoon bows were given to these boats because thought to make the boats faster. I should have supposed that a boat with a higher bow would be more seaworthy.
So far as appearance of profile goes, I very much prefer the forward-reaching stem of Types 1 and 2 in your drawing to the straighter stems of Nos. 3 and 4, and I also prefer the raking stern of No. 2 to the sterns of Types 3 and 4.
If I could build a boat, say 11-1/2 feet on the water line and not over 12-1/2 feet over all on these lines, I think it would be about right. [This will become #193303es SKYLARK.]" (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to N.G. Herreshoff. Halsey C. Herreshoff Collection at the Herreshoff Marine Museum Item MR_19770. Correspondence, Folder 53. 1933-11-20.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Unsigned carbon copy of a typed letter:] It occurs to me that you kept no copy of the drawing of the four types of boats which you sent me with your letter of November 19th [and which eventually led to the building of #193303es SKYLARK] and to which I referred in my answer yesterday. I return it to you herewith.
Yours sincerely, ..." (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to N.G. Herreshoff. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Oversize Folder, Folder Dinghy 12 & 14-Footer for William Greenough. 1933-11-21.)
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"[Item Description:] Penciled sketched sailplan of a wishboom Gunter-rigged dinghy which extrapolating from the known length of its 8ft 9in long wishboom appears to be 12ft 9in LWL and 14ft 6in LOA. On inside of envelope from Patterson, Eagle, Greenough & Day to NGH in Bristol postmarked November 20, 1933. The sketch appears to be an early sketch of what eventually led to the building of William Greenough's dinghy #193303es SKYLARK." (Source: Herreshoff, N.G. (creator). Penciled Sketch. Halsey C. Herreshoff Collection at the Herreshoff Marine Museum Item WRDT04_04830. Folder [no #], formerly MRDW00. No date (after 1933-11-20).)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Handwritten letter in ink:] I see by yours of 20th [November 1933] you prefer a smaller sized boat to build [that will eventually be #193303es SKYLARK] and with more overhangs at ends than the # 3 & 4 sketches I sent, and it has occurred to me a boat from a model [Model 1124 at HMM] I made last summer to represent what I would prefer (if I were young enough) as a good sailing dinghy for the same size sails as used on the popular 11 1/2 ft dinghies.
I will inclose an outline pencil sketch as I did of 4 other sizes and will return that sketch, just received, so you can compare.
This model is for 14ft 4in o.a. and 12ft 10in w.l. and is intended to be decked in at sides 5in or 6in, which I prefer if for sailing, but if not decked in 2in freeboard should be added. I think this a very nice looking model and w'ld advise building full length [Page 2] if you have room, but you could make it shorter if not.
I would advise 21 timber spaces in o.a. length, making 8in each, and setting up on 4 moulds spaced 33 3/5in apart. If you prefer a shorter boat make 7 1/2in timber spaces, which w'ld give 13ft 1 1/2in o.a. with 31.5in mould spaces. This w'ld give nearly 12ft w.l.
I approve highly of setting up as well as laying out on a raised platform, only I w'ld place it about 2 1/2ft above floor for a small boat.
I will await your reply.
Sincerely ... [Dated 'Oct 22 1933' by NGH, but both the letter of the 20th referred to here by NGH as well as Greenough's response to this letter are from November 1933, indicating that the month is wrong and should have been written 'Nov' by NGH.]" (Source: Herreshoff, N.G. Letter to Greenough, William. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1933-11-22 (and not 1933-10-22 as per original letter).)
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"[Item Description:] Penciled outline sketch of a sailing dinghy [from Model 1124 at HMM which will eventually lead to the building of #193303es SKYLARK]. On verso are sketches for another, apparently unrelated, boat with a long sloping keel. Sent with NGH letter to William Greenough dated November 22, 1933." (Source: Herreshoff, N.G. (creator). Sketch. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Oversize Folder, Folder Dinghy 12 & 14-Footer for William Greenough. No date (1933-11-22).)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Original signed typed letter:] I like the sketch of the profile of the model [Model 1124 at HMM] you made last summer which you sent me with your letter of November 22nd better than any of the others, and I believe there will be plenty of room to build it 14 feet 4 inches long over-all and get it out of the window. By taking the windows out of the frames, I imagine we can push it out sidewise with a tackle attached to the bow and a line attached to the stern.
I think this is a very fine looking boat [this will be #193303es SKYLARK]. Decking the sides 5 or 6 inches should not interfere with rowing it if desired. I am making preparations to begin as soon as you send me the construction plans, and you may be assured that the finished product will do you no discredit.
Yours sincerely ..." (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to N.G. Herreshoff. Halsey C. Herreshoff Collection at the Herreshoff Marine Museum Item MR_19750. Correspondence, Folder 53. 1933-11-23.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Unsigned carbon copy of a typed letter:] I like the sketch of the profile of the model [Model 1124 at HMM] you made last summer which you sent me with your letter of November 22nd better than any of the others, and I believe there will be plenty of room to build it 14 feet 4 inches long over-all and get it out of the window. By taking the windows out of the frames, I imagine we can push it out sidewise with a tackle attached to the bow and a line attached to the stern.
I think this is a very fine looking boat [this will be #193303es SKYLARK]. Decking the sides 5 or 6 inches should not interfere with rowing it if desired. I am making preparations to begin as soon as you send me the construction plans, and you may be assured that the finished product will do you no discredit.
Yours sincerely ..." (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to N.G. Herreshoff. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Oversize Folder, Folder Dinghy 12 & 14-Footer for William Greenough. 1933-11-23.)
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"[Item Description:] Sections and offsets for setting up molds for #193303es SKYLARK titled by NGH 'For my friend William Greenough. Nov. 27, 1933'. Also showing dimensioned transom sketch, location of transom. Dimensioned sketch of stem mould on verso. Marked 'A' in upper left corner. Sent with NGH letter to William Greenough dated November 28, 1933." (Source: Herreshoff, N.G. Correspondence (sections and offsets) to Greenough, William. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1933-11-27.)
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"[Item Description:] Penciled dimensioned sketch of a longitudinal section of a sailing dinghy [#193303es SKYLARK]. With detail sketch of centerboard slot. Marked 'B' in upper left corner. Sent with NGH letter to William Greenough dated November 28, 1933." (Source: Herreshoff, N.G. (creator). Sketch. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Oversize Folder, Folder Dinghy 12 & 14-Footer for William Greenough. No date (1933-11-27).)
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"[Item Description:] Penciled dimensioned sketch of the sailplan for a marconi wishbone rigged sailing dinghy [#193303es SKYLARK]. Marked 'C' in upper left corner. Sent with NGH letter to William Greenough dated November 28, 1933." (Source: Herreshoff, N.G. (creator). Sketch. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Oversize Folder, Folder Dinghy 12 & 14-Footer for William Greenough. No date (1933-11-27).)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Handwritten letter in ink. See also sections and mold offsets sketch dated November 27, 1933 which had been sent with this letter.] I am inclosing with this pencil drawings for the boat [#193303es SKYLARK] we have corresponded about --- one sheet showing longitudinal section for construction, one having offsets for setting up frames, and one showing two sizes of sails & spars. I have been slow at making these, for my sight is getting poor for such work. The inking in of the two drawings will have to be done by younger eyes.
The drawings show depth as I originally designed, for a pleasure sailing dinghy, in which I would have side-decking 5in or 6in wide. You wrote you intended to use the boat for fishing as well as sailing. After a fishing trip you will probably give her a thorough washing out. Which can be most thoroughly done by taking the boat out and proping[?] up edge to dash water in. For this, an open gunwhale is imperative and as I understand the case, it would be better for you to have an open gunwhale, and the sheerline raised 1 1/2in or 2in, simply continuing the moulds. The stem rabbate and transome that much higher with fair lines. I would keep the thwarts low as drawn so the boat will not feel top-heavy when several are seated. You will notice there are but two permanent thwarts, double kneed, and [Page 2] the stern bench single kneed. There is a slip-thwart made in halves, that can be used when desired. The outboard ends resting on the flat[?] stringers and inboard ends on cleats screwed to the centreboard casing. You can have a cover on the casing if desired or left open. The rudder is the type I prefer. It is hung so it will slide up the rod when running into shallow water and the steering is done by ropes that are adjusted and attached to a little rounded piece of wood just aft the thwart and between the lead blocks secured to thwart-knees.
All the brass fittings rudder hanging, steering rope pully blocks & lifting eyes can be furnished by the Herreshoff Mfg. Co. which they make for their own build of boats. You will see the mast is forward of the fore0thwart, and its partner piece is well secured to the thwart. Make it of 7/8in white oak and screw & glue to underside of thwart. I would also 'spring-back' pieces at stringer ends of fore-thwart, that will assist the knees and hold the thwart up the seat[?] stringers [two sketches]. These should be fastened to the face of seat stringers, before they are fastened in place. They might be 2 1/2ft long, 3in wide at middle, 1in at end and 3/4 thick, of mahogany like thwarts or oak.
On the sail-plan drawing I have shown two sizes of sails and spars. The larger (dotted) 72sqft is about right for summer sailing, but the other 56 sqft would be best for your fishing trips and the boat [Page 3] would go very well with it. With either rig the spars can be stowed on board and with the yard lowered end wise till the jaw end is not above head of mast. i think you will find it a great convenience to have a wire strand stretched tought along the upper part of yard, on forward side, that passes thru an eye at head of mast, so when you let go halyards the yard slides down endwise and never departs from the mast. Then before unstepping the mast raise the boom up along along the mast. When in this position and standing, with the loose sail gathered in and all stopped together, the rig is out the way while fishing. The larger sail (72sqft) is the maximum area allowed on the 11 1/2ft racing dinghies.
I have used for the past 45 years a sprit-boom with adjustable jaws with pin holes to put a stopper pin in position to properly stretch the sail, the clue being permanently lashed to end of boom [with sketch]. The boom might be made with some side curvature to allow better draft to sail when boom is to lee. A short pennant from a hole in the jaw to the luff rope of sail, a short distance above position for boom, insures it coming to place when sail is hoisted.
A wooden centre-board is much preferable to a metal one, for anything but intense [Page 4] racing and if build of mahogany will need some lead inserted, just enough to sink it.
For a boat over 11 or 12 feet long in which I sail single-hand, I have found the rope and tackle steering much better and safer than a tiller, for it allows the one person to be in position to trim the boat correctly and the steering rope is always in reach if hiking out to windward or inboard.
I use a cotton 3 strand rope about 7/32in dia[meter] and run it thru melted parafine wax, being well wiped off as it comes out, and it should be adjusted so it is a little slack to run easily.
I hope these details will not be too tiresome.
With kind regards, ..." (Source: Herreshoff, N.G. Letter to Greenough, William. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1933-11-28.)
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"[Item Description:] Photostat construction plan with inboard profile and centerboard scasing section titled in ink 'Sailing Dinghey [#193303es SKYLARK] designed for W[illia]m Greenough Esq. 1933 -'." (Source: Herreshoff, N.G. (?) (creator). Photostat Construction Plan. Halsey C. Herreshoff Collection at the Herreshoff Marine Museum Acc. 2004.0001.0338. WRDT08, Folder 19, formerly MRDE09. 1933.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Unsigned carbon copy of a typed letter:] The plans and spefifications came today, and I am immensely pleased with them and grateful to you. I shall start work at once.
I am getting a lot of interest in the work and a good deal of volunteer assistance, especially from Mr. W. P. Stevens[sic, i.e. Stephens], who wrote a book on Small Boat Building as far back as 1883, and he says he will help me.
W. A. W. Stewart, who is now the Chairman of the Americas Cup Committee, says that it is quite possible, as they have not yet been able to get up a syndicate to build a defender for the Americas Cup Committee, that they may select my new boat [#193303es SKYLARK].
Yours sincerely ..." (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to N.G. Herreshoff. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1933-12-01.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Original signed typed letter:] The plans and spefifications came today, and I am immensely pleased with them and grateful to you. I shall start work at once.
I am getting a lot of interest in the work and a good deal of volunteer assistance, especially from Mr. W. P. Stevens[sic, i.e. Stephens], who wrote a book on Small Boat Building as far back as 1883, and he says he will help me.
W. A. W. Stewart, who is now the Chairman of the Americas Cup Committee, says that it is quite possible, as they have not yet been able to get up a syndicate to build a defender for the Americas Cup Committee, that they may select my new boat [#193303es SKYLARK].
Yours sincerely ..." (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to N.G. Herreshoff. Halsey C. Herreshoff Collection at the Herreshoff Marine Museum Item MR_19760. Correspondence, Folder 53. 1933-12-01.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Typed unsigned (copy) letter:] I enclose herewith typewritten copy of a letter dated November 28th [1933], addressed to me by Mr. N.G. Herreshoff, explaining the pencil drawings of the 14-foot dinghy [#193303es SKYLARK] which he has designed for me, and also photostat copy of longitudinal section for construction, sheet of cross-section and offsets for setting up moulds, stem measurement and sail plan, and typewritten copy of specifications.
Yours very truly," (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to Rhodes, P.L. (naval architect). MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.053. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1933-12-05.)
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"[Item Description:] Typed specifications for William Greenough's dinghy #193303es SKYLARK marked 'Copy'. (Created by NGH, these specifications were apparently typed by William Greenough for sending to P.L. Rhodes with letter dated December 5, 1933.)" (Source: Herreshoff, N.G. (creator). Specifications. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.053. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. No date (sent with Greenough to Rhodes letter dated 1933-12-05).)
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"[Item Transcription:] Laying-Down Plan
14 Foot Sailing Dinghy [#193303es SKYLARK]
Designed by
N.G. Herreshoff
For
William Greenough, Esq.
November 1933
Scale 1 1/2in = 1ft 0in
P.L. Rhodes
100 Park Avenue, N.Y.C.'" (Source: Rhodes, Philip L. (creator). Blueprint. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.053. Oversize Folder, Folder Dinghy 12 & 14-Footer for William Greenough. No date (after 1933-12-05).)
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"[Item Description:] Correspondence with bills (from Seaway Equipment Corp, Ratsey & Lapthorn, Dochterman Van & Express, Topping Brothers, HMCo, NYYC Station Newport, Clyde Mallory Lines, Newport Shipyard, Cox & Stevens, Philip Rhodes) and sketches relating to the commissioning of William Greenough's dinghy #193303es SKYLARK." (Source: MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.053. Correspondence. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1934 to 1935.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Unsigned carbon copy of a typed letter:] Construction of the 14-foot dinghy [#193303es SKYLARK] has gone along with reasonable rapidity and to my complete satisfaction. The stem has been bent and the rabbet line partly cut. The keel has been cut, and last night was successfully steamed and bent. The transome has been cut, as well as all the molds, and I anticipate that on Friday we shall bolt the stem and the transome to the keel and set up the molds. I have not yet cut the centreboard slot for the following reasons:
It seems to me that the boat would be a much better rowing boat if the thwart abreast of the centreboard trunk could be availed of by one oarsman or by one of two oarsmen, the other oarsman occupying the after thwart. No one can row from the slip thwarts designed to land on the centreboard casing.
I would therefore like to know whether it would greatly reduce the efficiency or lateral resistance of the centreboard if the top of the casing should be lowered to the top of the seat stringers, and the board itself made of bronze instead of wood. As I do not expect to race the dinghy, I inquire whether a board, say, 12 inches wide instead of 16, as indicated on your drawings, might not be adequate for ordinary uses. In that case, the thwart could be run across the top of the centreboard casing. If we should use a metal board, the slot instead of being an inch wide at the ends and an inch and a quarter at the middle, might be reduced to half an inch, the board itself being, say, 3/16 of an inch thick.
I have gotten the white oak keel and seat stringers and mahogany for the sheef-strake, transome, thwarts, etc., from Ichabod T. Williams & Sons, of which firm Mr. Thomas Williams is a friend of mine. He is taking a great interest in the construction of the boat, and had his foreman pick out the very best wood to be had. The keel especially is a beautiful piece of straight-grained, very well seasoned white oak. The mahogany is Mexican mahogany. Mr. Williams's foreman wanted me to plank the boat with mahogany, but Mr. Murray thought that white cedar was better because, I understand, somewhat lighter. Nevertheless it has been found difficult to get clear white cedar planks 16 feet long. It appears that Nevins have such planks 30 feet long, but they feel that the waste involved in buying those planks would be considerable. Mr. Williams can furnish me beautiful mahogany of any kind, cut to any thickness that we want, and I would thank you if you would let me know what you think of the relative merits of some kind of mahogany as contrasted with white cedar.
I also would like to have your view on the question of whether, instead of having the mast step fastened under the forward thwart, as shown on the plan, it would not be possible to have a removable mast step on the level of the sheer-strake. This might give a better leverage and support for the mast when sailing than the step on the line of the seat stringers.
As you may not have kept any copy of the construction plan, I am sending you a photostat copy.
Yours sincerely ..." (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to N.G. Herreshoff. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1934-01-03.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Original signed typed letter:] Construction of the 14-foot dinghy [#193303es SKYLARK] has gone along with reasonable rapidity and to my complete satisfaction. The stem has been bent and the rabbet line partly cut. The keel has been cut, and last night was successfully steamed and bent. The transome has been cut, as well as all the molds, and I anticipate that on Friday we shall bolt the stem and the transome to the keel and set up the molds. I have not yet cut the centreboard slot for the following reasons:
It seems to me that the boat would be a much better rowing boat if the thwart abreast of the centreboard trunk could be availed of by one oarsman or by one of two oarsmen, the other oarsman occupying the after thwart. No one can row from the slip thwarts designed to land on the centreboard casing.
I would therefore like to know whether it would greatly reduce the efficiency or lateral resistance of the centreboard if the top of the casing should be lowered to the top of the seat stringers, and the board itself made of bronze instead of wood. As I do not expect to race the dinghy, I inquire whether a board, say, 12 inches wide instead of 16, as indicated on your drawings, might not be adequate for ordinary uses. In that case, the thwart could be run across the top of the centreboard casing. If we should use a metal board, the slot instead of being an inch wide at the ends and an inch and a quarter at the middle, might be reduced to half an inch, the board itself being, say, 3/16 of an inch thick.
I have gotten the white oak keel and seat stringers and mahogany for the sheef-strake, transome, thwarts, etc., from Ichabod T. Williams & Sons, of which firm Mr. Thomas Williams is a friend of mine. He is taking a great interest in the construction of the boat, and had his foreman pick out the very best wood to be had. The keel especially is a beautiful piece of straight-grained, very well seasoned white oak. The mahogany is Mexican mahogany. Mr. Williams's foreman wanted me to plank the boat with mahogany, but Mr. Murray thought that white cedar was better because, I understand, somewhat lighter. Nevertheless it has been found difficult to get clear white cedar planks 16 feet long. It appears that Nevins have such planks 30 feet long, but they feel that the waste involved in buying those planks would be considerable. Mr. Williams can furnish me beautiful mahogany of any kind, cut to any thickness that we want, and I would thank you if you would let me know what you think of the relative merits of some kind of mahogany as contrasted with white cedar.
I also would like to have your view on the question of whether, instead of having the mast step fastened under the forward thwart, as shown on the plan, it would not be possible to have a removable mast step on the level of the sheer-strake. This might give a better leverage and support for the mast when sailing than the step on the line of the seat stringers.
As you may not have kept any copy of the construction plan, I am sending you a photostat copy.
Yours sincerely ..." (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to N.G. Herreshoff. Halsey C. Herreshoff Collection at the Herreshoff Marine Museum Item MR_19800. Correspondence, Folder 53. 1934-01-03.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Handwritten signed original letter in ink:] I was just thinking of writing you to learn how you ware progressing with the little boat [#193303es SKYLARK], when your interesting letter of 3rd came and I thank you for the photostat copy of the pencil drawing of which I did not have copy. If you bent the stem & keel you must he fitted out with a very efficient steaming outfit and I supposed you would get [Rufus] Murray (of Nevins) to bend the stem for you. The amount of bend in the keel could easily he done with hot water applied when setting up.
We generally fit centre-board casings coming up only to level of thwart stringer, and it appears sufficient until the boat is towed at high speed, --- then you get in a peck of trouble. As it is so common now to tow behind a power boat of considerable speed, I indicated on your sketch a closed in casing for a c-board of ample width. Certainly, a narrower board of 13in width will do very well, and this width you can get by raising the middle length of seat-stringer a little and bring the two sections of covering board to casing snug up to the thwart. But with my experience I would not think of using a metal centreboard again. It better be of either mahogany, yellow-bark oak, or white oak, and be sure the stock is not slash-cut but has [Page 2] the grain rings running very nearly across the board. It can be in one piece, but is just as well or perhaps better in 2 or 3, and edge bolted, and in any case will need an insertion of lead to sink it. I think a pennant to lift would be more satisfactory, and I would have it close aft the thwart, and away from aft end of cover-board.
In writing the above, I was thinking of the mid-thwart being fixed, but I really would prefer having it removable all in one piece and in this case the cover-board of casing would be in one piece and the thwart a little higher, --- where the thwart stringers could be put in pairs and short rest-pieces over it for receiving thwart. This thwart, being supported in middle, need be only 7/16in thick.
Your mentioning of Ichabod T. Williams & Sons brings back pleasant memories of the past, when we used to get much fine lumber from them. My brother John did all the purchasing, so I had no personal contact with them, but when we wanted nice mahogany it always came from I. T. Williams & Sons and our negotiations began in the late [18]70s. I joined my brother John in business in 1878, but I did all his drafting for many years before when I was connected with the Corliss Steam Engine Co. While there I had charge of starting up the great Corliss Engine that drove the machinery of Machinery Hall of the Centennial Exposition of 1876.
[Page 3] In I. T. Williams exhibit, there were some enormous Spanish cedar boards that were not only a wonder by their breadth, but of being sawed to that breadth. As time went on Williams could not sell these boards and they were in the way. They were offered to my brother at a reduced price, and we finally worked them up, I now have a great drafting board made from this lumber that is 53in long x 41in wide without any seam or glueing. There is also in my boathouse a lap-streaked double-ended canoe [ #188404es INEZITA from 1884?] that was built in about 1883, and planked of this same stock, and she is still in perfect condition. This may interest your friend Mr. Williams.
I consider white cedar the very best wood for planking for a small boat. It is 'leathery' and will stand more knocks and abuse than any other wood, excepting perhaps white oak, but it is very much lighter and for that reason preferable. Spanish cedar is much lighter than Mexican mahogany and is good but splits easier than white cedar. Mexican mahogany would be my next choice in utility, but perhaps w'ld be No 1 for appearance of finished job if to be varnished. But I would not have a varnished boat to use anyway. If you take the boat out of water much you will find a great advantage by having cedar planking, and I would be willing to pay a higher price for it than for mahogany. The dry weights are about:- White cedar 24 lbs. per cu.ft. Spanish cedar [Page 3] 33 lbs. Mexican mahogany 36 lbs. White cedar will water-soak less than Spanish cedar or mahogany. If Nevins could furnish you with the fine cleat spruce now obtainable and what they use for making spars, it would be almost as good as white cedar for planking, although it has not been used much for that purpose. It weighs about 31 lbs per cu. ft. but being so strong & tough could be worked thinner. Perhaps Williams could furnish it.
From our experience, I do not think you will have any trouble by the mast-partner being only about 13-1/2in above the mast-step. It is a short hold, but the masts do not complain and it is a great convenience having the partner down below the thwart level. I think I wrote you to have 'strong-backs' to secure the thwart beside being double-kneed, and the partner piece glued as well as screwed to thwart. Also particular attention to have mast step well fastened and snugly fitted in floor board so that will help hold it.
Strong-back 3in wide.
With kind regards -
Sincerely yours, ..." (Source: Herreshoff, N.G. Letter to Greenough, William. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1934-01-05.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Unsigned carbon copy of a typewritten copy of NGH's handwritten letter of the same date. Marked in upper margin in pencil (probably by Hart Natutical Collections curator) 'this is extra copy. attached MS Xeroxed (2 pages) of page 2 thus typed copy. copied from material at Hart Nautical Museum MIT, a collection of letters on b[ui]ld]in]g a small boat for Mr Greenough'.] I was just thinking of writing you to learn how you ware progressing with the little boat [#193303es SKYLARK], when your interesting letter of 3rd came and I thank you for the photostat copy of the pencil drawing of which I did not have copy. If you bent the stem & keel you must he fitted out with a very efficient steaming outfit and I supposed you would get [Rufus] Murray (of Nevins) to bend the stem for you. The amount of bend in the keel could easily he done with hot water applied when setting up.
We generally fit centre-board casings coming up only to level of thwart stringer, and it appears sufficient until the boat is towed at high speed, --- then you get in a peck of trouble. As it is so common now to tow behind a power boat of considerable speed, I indicated on your sketch a closed in casing for a c-board of ample width. Certainly, a narrower board of 13in width will do very well, and this width you can get by raising the middle length of seat-stringer a little and bring the two sections of covering board to casing snug up to the thwart. But with my experience I would not think of using a metal centreboard again. It better be of either mahogany, yellow-bark oak, or white oak, and be sure the stock is not slash-cut but has the grain rings running very nearly across the board. It can be in one piece, but is just as well or perhaps better in 2 or 3, and edge bolted, and in any case will need an insertion of lead to sink it. I think a pennant to lift would be more satisfactory, and I would have it close aft the thwart, and away from aft end of cover-board.
In writing the above, I was thinking of the mid-thwart being fixed, but I really would prefer having it removable all in one piece and in this case the cover-board of casing would be in one piece and the thwart a little higher, --- where the thwart stringers could be put in pairs and short rest-pieces over it for receiving thwart. This thwart, being supported in middle, need be only 7/16in thick.
Your mentioning of Ichabod T. Williams & Sons brings back pleasant memories of the past, when we used to get much fine lumber from them. My brother John did all the purchasing, so I had no personal contact with them, but when we wanted nice mahogany it always came from I. T. Williams & Sons and our negotiations began in the late [18]70s. I joined my brother John in business in 1878, but I did all his drafting for many years before when I was connected with the Corliss Steam Engine Co. While there I had charge of starting up the great Corliss Engine that drove the machinery of Machinery Hall of the Centennial Exposition of 1876.
[Page 2] In I. T. Williams exhibit, there were some enormous Spanish cedar boards that were not only a wonder by their breadth, but of being sawed to that breadth. As time went on Williams could not sell these boards and they were in the way. They were offered to my brother at a reduced price, and we finally worked them up, I now have a great drafting board made from this lumber that is 53in long x 41in wide without any seam or glueing. There is also in my boathouse a lap-streaked double-ended canoe [ #188404es INEZITA from 1884?] that was built in about 1883, and planked of this same stock, and she is still in perfect condition. This may interest your friend Mr. Williams.
I consider white cedar the very best wood for planking for a small boat. It is 'leathery' and will stand more knocks and abuse than any other wood, excepting perhaps white oak, but it is very much lighter and for that reason preferable. Spanish cedar is much lighter than Mexican mahogany and is good but splits easier than white cedar. Mexican mahogany would be my next choice in utility, but perhaps w'ld be No 1 for appearance of finished job if to be varnished. But I would not have a varnished boat to use anyway. If you take the boat out of water much you will find a great advantage by having cedar planking, and I would be willing to pay a higher price for it than for mahogany. The dry weights are about:- White cedar 24 lbs. per cu.ft. Spanish cedar 33 lbs. Mexican mahogany 36 lbs. White cedar will water-soak less than Spanish cedar or mahogany. If Nevins could furnish you with the fine cleat spruce now obtainable and what they use for making spars, it would be almost as good as white cedar for planking, although it has not been used much for that purpose. It weighs about 31 lbs per cu. ft. but being so strong & tough could be worked thinner. Perhaps Williams could furnish it.
From our experience, I do not think you will have any trouble by the mast-partner being only about 13-1/2in above the mast-step. It is a short hold, but the masts do not complain and it is a great convenience having the partner down below the thwart level. I think I wrote you to have 'strong-backs' to secure the thwart beside being double-kneed, and the partner piece glued as well as screwed to thwart. Also particular attention to have mast step well fastened and snugly fitted in floor board so that will help hold it.
Strong-back 3in wide.
With kind regards -
Sincerely yours, ..." (Source: Herreshoff, N.G. Letter to Greenough, William. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1934-01-05.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Unsigned carbon copy of a typed letter:] Thank you for your letter of January 5th [1934].
The stem [for #193303es SKYLARK] is made of two pieces glued together and bent up at Nevins's shop. The keel, however, we bent in my house. My steam outfit required some ingenuity. I got a plumber to make me a round galvanized iron pipe 8 inches in diameter with a plug of the same metal at one end. The pipe is 8 feet long, in two sections, one of which pushes into the other. The plumber gave me a piece of old, thick asbestos paper which we wrapped round the pipe and tied securely. I then got a druggist to give me an old five-gallon government alcohol can, on which I had a tinsmith solder a nozzle. Over this nozzle I push a piece of rubber steam-hose 8 feet long.
After putting 3 gallons of water in the alcohol can, I set the can on a gas stove, and after several preliminary trials, finally obtained very hot steam, with which we succeeded in bending the 1-1/8 inch white oak keel in a very satisfactory manner, after steaming it for about an hour and a half. It bent beautifully over a form previously prepared, without splitting or any torsion whatever, and I think it is a very satisfactory job.
Following your advice, we will make the centreboard of wood instead of metal, and narrow it down from 18 inches to 13 inches. Since I wrote you we have cut the rabbate line on the keel, and tonight I think we will out the centreboard slot.
I have sent Mr. Thomas Williams, the present head of the firm of Ichabod Williams Sons, copy of
that portion of your latter which referred to his firm and your experience with them. I shall keep you informed of further progress.
Yours sincerely, ..." (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to N.G. Herreshoff. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1934-01-08.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Unsigned carbon copy of a typed letter:] I think you will be interested to learn that we are making quite rapid progress in building the sailing dinghy [#193303es SKYLARK]. We have now reached the stage where we have put on and riveted the three lower planks, and by the end of this week we will have five or six completed. I expect the dinghy will be finished by the middle of March. We now expect to make the centreboard of teak in three pieces, edge bolted, with inset of lead. Unless you should advise me to the contrary, instead of having a pennant, I propose to raise and lower the board with a brass rod which can be pulled up and laid flat on the top of the trunk and held down by a clip when the board is raised. I would like to inquire how much lead you think would be appropriate.
The specifications show that the floor timbers should extend out to end over the second plank. In the waist of the boat they can easily extend over the third plank. Is it your idea that they should extend only over the second plank? Unless you advise me to the contrary, I shall carry them over the third plank where the specified depth of the timber over the keel (1-1/8 inches) will give sufficient thickness over the third plank to hold the screws without weakening the end of the timber.
At the Motor Boat Show I noticed that the standard 11-1/2 foot sailing dinghies all carried 72 square feet of sail. From this it would appear that my boat, which is 3 feet longer, although no wider, might easily carry the larger sail which you indicated on your sail plan and which contained 72 square feet. What do you think about this?
I also noticed that the dinghies in the Motor Boat Show (particularly those exhibited by John Alden and Ratsey) have light shrouds made of rustless steel wire. Your sail and rigging plan indicates no shrouds. Do you think it would be advisable to use them? In this connection I have about decided that the boat would look better if decked over forward as far aft as the mast so that the mast could be held to a crossbeam, at the after end of the deck. I think this deck will keep some water out even though we have no narrow decks along the sides which I do not want to have for various reasons, particularly as we have raised the sheer by 3 inches.
I hope that this will find you in good health and that my questions do not bother you.
Many of my friends are looking forward with some interest to the launching of the boat from the window of the front third story bedroom of my house in East 56th Street, where the boat is being built. They believe that we will need the police to keep order in the street. After she has been lowered out of the window and christened appropriately, I propose to take her on a truck down to the New York Yacht Club Station at 26th Street and the East River, and after putting her in the water, placing her in a shed there to wait until it is convenient to send her to Newport. If it would interest you to see the launching, I beg to extend a most cordial invitation on behalf of myself and Mrs. Greenough for you and Mrs. Herreshoff to be present at this event. The entire membership of the Americas Cup Committee will be present, and I propose to ask Mr. Murray and Mr. Nevins.
Yours sincerely, ..." (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to N.G. Herreshoff. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1934-01-30.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Original signed typed letter on Patterson, Eagle, Greenough & Day stationery:] I think you will be interested to learn that we are making quite rapid progress in building the sailing dinghy [#193303es SKYLARK]. We have now reached the stage where we have put on and riveted the three lower planks, and by the end of this week we will have five or six completed. I expect the dinghy will be finished by the middle of March. We now expect to make the centreboard of teak in three pieces, edge bolted, with inset of lead. Unless you should advise me to the contrary, instead of having a pennant, I propose to raise and lower the board with a brass rod which can be pulled up and laid flat on the top of the trunk and held down by a clip when the board is raised. I would like to inquire how much lead you think would be appropriate.
The specifications show that the floor timbers should extend out to end over the second plank. In the waist of the boat they can easily extend over the third plank. Is it your idea that they should extend only over the second plank? Unless you advise me to the contrary, I shall carry them over the third plank where the specified depth of the timber over the keel (1-1/8 inches) will give sufficient thickness over the third plank to hold the screws without weakening the end of the timber.
At the Motor Boat Show I noticed that the standard 11-1/2 foot sailing dinghies all carried 72 square feet of sail. From this it would appear that my boat, which is 3 feet longer, although no wider, might easily carry the larger sail which you indicated on your sail plan and which contained 72 square feet. What do you think about this?
I also noticed that the dinghies in the Motor Boat Show (particularly those exhibited by John Alden and Ratsey) have light shrouds made of rustless steel wire. Your sail and rigging plan indicates no shrouds. Do you think it would be advisable to use them? In this connection I have about decided that the boat would look better if decked over forward as far aft as the mast so that the mast could be held to a crossbeam, at the after end of the deck. I think this deck will keep some water out even though we have no narrow decks along the sides which I do not want to have for various reasons, particularly as we have raised the sheer by 3 inches.
I hope that this will find you in good health and that my questions do not bother you.
Many of my friends are looking forward with some interest to the launching of the boat from the window of the front third story bedroom of my house in East 56th Street, where the boat is being built. They believe that we will need the police to keep order in the street. After she has been lowered out of the window and christened appropriately, I propose to take her on a truck down to the New York Yacht Club Station at 26th Street and the East River, and after putting her in the water, placing her in a shed there to wait until it is convenient to send her to Newport. If it would interest you to see the launching, I beg to extend a most cordial invitation on behalf of myself and Mrs. Greenough for you and Mrs. Herreshoff to be present at this event. The entire membership of the Americas Cup Committee will be present, and I propose to ask Mr. Murray and Mr. Nevins.
Yours sincerely, ..." (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to N.G. Herreshoff. Halsey C. Herreshoff Collection at the Herreshoff Marine Museum Item MR_19820. Correspondence, Folder 53. 1934-01-30.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Handwritten signed original letter in ink:] I am pleased to have your letter of 30th ult. [January 30, 1934] and know the little boat [#193303es SKYLARK] is coming on so nicely.
Regarding the centre-board control-rod, this when properly arranged is very simple and convenient and partly gets over the necessity of having the c.b. weighted. The serious objective is when you would like to have the c.b. half down, then the rod stands up and in the way, so liable to be bent. If the board is not weighted a button is necessary to hold it sown, and if you happen to strike bottom something bad will happen. For myself I therefore prefer the weighted c.b. and a rope pennant. For the weight of lead, required to sink centreboard. The wight of lead is 710lbs per cuft and teak about 42 lbs per cuft, or about 1/17th. Supposing the board is of uniform thickness equivalent to 320 sq.in. area, the area of lead insert should be [the following term marked in red] (320/(17-1) of 20 sq in) to give it equal specific gravity as water. I would cut out for the lead somewhat toward the after upper corner a place about [the following term crossed out in red] 3 1/2in x 5 1/2in, expecting the weight of bolts and that part of c.b. not immersed would sink it sufficiently.
Perhaps I was a little careless in specifying the length of arms[?] of floor timbers, which should be not less than to second plank.
The straight top ones should always run to intersection of top of main timber to give bearing [Page 2] for the floor boards.
About sail-area. The 11 1/2ft dinghies in which they race, all are, to my thinking, over rigged for what you wanted: just for pleasure sailing and fishing trips. The extra length of your boat over these dinghies really detracts from the stability if of equal weight, besides, the with is a little less than the average of them. I didn't keep a copy of sail plan I sent you, but I think you will find the rig large enough. It is a lot of foolishness to rig these little boats with wire stays, and not at all necessary, even in intense racing. In such a boat as you are building and intended for utility uses, and when you would often get in or out of from a shore she would be infinitely better without the forward deck. the boat is too light and narrow to stand on a forward deck, for she w'ld probably roll over.
You find this work so interesting, perhaps you will build another boat next winter to be wider and nearer of sailing boat type but still could be easily rowed. Such a boat 5ft or 5ft 3in wide might have forward and side decking, and I would be very much pleased to design it for you if you came to it.
It is interesting indeed you intend launching celebrations, and I thank you and rs Greenough for inviting Mrs Herreshoff and me to come on and to your house but I no longer go away from home except for a few hours and will have to decline.
With kindest regards, Sincerely yours ... [With added note on a separate sheet of paper:] In looking over I see I have made a queer blunder in calculation for lead space.
It should be --- wgt of lead immersed (710-64) = 646 lbs, of teak immersed (42-64) = -22, ratio, nearly 30 to 1. For 320 sq inches of board less 1/30th cut away for lead the lead area to just sink complete boats is (320-10.7)/30 = 10 1/4 sq in nearly, or about, about[sic] 2 3/4 x 3 3/4 inches. If board is 13/16 thick, the content w'ld be .81 cu in. and lead at .411 lbs for cu in, 8.1 x 4in[?] = 3 1/3 lbs nearly. I would make the cut 2 3/4in x 4 1/2in giving 4 lbs, alongside the upper seam, 1/4th from aft end. Chamfer edges to hold lead in when cast." (Source: Herreshoff, N.G. Letter to Greenough, William. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1934-02-01.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Unsigned carbon copy of a typed letter:] The dinghy [#193303es SKYLARK] is almost finished and will probably be taken to New London the end of next week to be put on board the steam yacht VIKING, on which I am going with Mr. Baker to the West Indies and subsequently across the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, sailing about April lst. Her first contact with the water bids fair to be somewhere in the Caribbean Sea. When she is taken out of the house, so that a proper perspective can be obtained, I mean to have a photograph of her made to send to you. Every one who has seen her is thrilled by the beauty of her model, the beautiful quality of the wood of which she is built, and the excellence of her construction. We have spared no pains to do justice to the exquisite lines which are your creation.
I want to have a little metal plate made, to be fastened to the inside of the transom, upon which I would like to have inscribed:
'Designed by Nathaniel G. Herreshoff for William Greenough, and built by him and Carl G. Ausland, 1934.'
Would you be willing to have me do this?
Yours sincerely, ..." (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to N.G. Herreshoff. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1934-03-02.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Original signed typed letter:] The dinghy [#193303es SKYLARK] is almost finished and will probably be taken to New London the end of next week to be put on board the steam yacht VIKING, on which I am going with Mr. Baker to the West Indies and subsequently across the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, sailing about April lst. Her first contact with the water bids fair to be somewhere in the Caribbean Sea. When she is taken out of the house, so that a proper perspective can be obtained, I mean to have a photograph of her made to send to you. Every one who has seen her is thrilled by the beauty of her model, the beautiful quality of the wood of which she is built, and the excellence of her construction. We have spared no pains to do justice to the exquisite lines which are your creation.
I want to have a little metal plate made, to be fastened to the inside of the transom, upon which I would like to have inscribed:
'Designed by Nathaniel G. Herreshoff for William Greenough, and built by him and Carl G. Ausland, 1934.'
Would you be willing to have me do this?
Yours sincerely, ..." (Source: Greenough, William. Letter to N.G. Herreshoff. Halsey C. Herreshoff Collection at the Herreshoff Marine Museum Item MR_19840. Correspondence, Folder 53. 1934-03-02.)
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"[Item Transcription:] [Handwritten signed letter on 'N.G. Herreshoff, Bristol, R.I.' stationery:] I am pleased to have your letter of 2nd [March 2, 1934] and congratulate you on getting the little boat [#193303es SKYLARK] completed so quickly and so well. It is so good to know the boat has attractive appearance to all who have seen her.
It is certainly quite surprising you are to take the boat off on a cruise and will first float her in the Caribbean.
Have you the rig completed? And that work out well.
Please give my kind regards to Mr. Baker.
Sixty years ago I went abroad to build up my health. I staid [Page 2] 4 or 5 months at Nice with friends. While there I built two little boats, one 12ft [#187404es L'ONDA], and the larger 16ft [#187406es RIVIERA] which was c.b. dinghy type.
We sailed a good deal between Villa France and Cannes and finally left for home in the RIVIERA via the Mediterranean Coast. The Rhone, the Saone (the two last by st[eame]r & railway as current proved too strong), Canal to the Rhine, St[eame]r from Rotterdam to London, sailed in Riviera 2 weeks on the Thames, then train to Liverpool and St[eame]r to New York, then sailed home in RIVIERA. I still have RIVIERA in my boathouse.
With kind regards & best wishes,
Sincerely ...
P.S. I have no objections to putting a plate on the boat if you wish to." (Source: Herreshoff, N.G. Letter to Greenough, William. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.052. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1934-03-04.)
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"[Item Description:] Correspondence regarding William Greenough's wish to acquire an Amphicraft trailer from HMCo for his dinghy #193303es SKYLARK and his eventual refusal to buy on grounds of too high a price, leading to the trailer being made elsewhere from a photo sent by HMCo." (Source: MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.053. Correspondence. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1935-05 and 1935-06.)
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"[Item Description:] Correspondence relating to a commission by William Greenough to P. A. Rhodes at Cox & Stevens to reduce NGH's plans made for Greenough's 14-foot dinghy #193303es SKYLARK to a 11ft 6in dinghy. See blueprint made by Cox & Stevens (P. L. Rhodes) showing 11ft dinghy details." (Source: Rhodes, P.L. (Cox & Stevens). Letters to Greenough, William. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.053. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1936-01 to 1936-03 and 1945-04.)
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"[Item Transcription:] Blueprint titled '12-Foot Dinghy For William Greenough, Esq.' showing keel and section and annotations like 'This curve same as 14-footer [#193303es SKYLARK]', 'Revised section', Section as made for 14ft', and 'Section changed between these points.' Together with separate (mailing) label 'Cox & Stevens Inc.
11 Bradway
New York, N.Y.
To:
William Greenough, Esq.
120 Broadway, Rm. 2555
New York, N.Y.' Apparently sent with April 18 1945 letter by P. L. Rhodes of Cox & Stevens to William Greenough." (Source: Rhodes, P.L. (Cox & Stevens). Correspondence (blueprint) to Greenough, William. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.053. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. No date (1949-04 ?).)
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"[Item Description:] Correspondence relating to the donation to M.I.T.'s Hart Nautical Collections of documents about the designing, building and commissioning of William Greenough's dinghy #193303es SKYLARK." (Source: Greenough, Mrs. William. Letters to Hart Nautical Collections. MIT Museum, Hart Nautical Collections, Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection Item HH.6.053. Box HAFH.6.2B, Folder Dinghy - 12 & 14 Foot for William Greenough. 1949.)
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Note: This list of archival documents contains in an unedited form any and all which mention #193303es Skylark even if just in a cursory way. Permission to digitize, transcribe and display is gratefully acknowledged.

"Skylark was not built by HMCo. She was designed for William Greenough by NGH in November 1933 and built over the winter of 1933/1934 by its owner on the third floor of his appartment in New York City on 469 East 10th Street. The Hart Nautical Collections at MIT holds an extensive file of letters, offsets, drawings and sketches sent between NGH and Mr. Greenough as well as suppliers such as sailmaker Ratsey and Nevins. This file also includes a lines plan drawn by Philip Rhodes to the design of NGH. See Haffenreffer-Herreshoff Collection, Series VI, Folder HH.6.52, Box HAFH.6.2B. The Herreshoff Marine Museum also holds material regarding this boat. See 'Folder 53 (new). Greenough, William: 14ft. Sailing dinghy built by Greenough. Orig. in envelope marked 'George Baker, Wm. Greenough' (1933-1934).' and "#2004.0001.338; Construction drawing. In ink: Sailing Dinghy designed for Wm. Greenough, Esq. 1933; Photostat, (1933).' " (Source: van der Linde, Claas. November 22, 2015.)

"This boat is listed as 'Not built' in the Herreshoff Catalogue Raisonné because it was built by its owner rather than the HMCo." (Source: van der Linde, Claas. November 22, 2015.)

Note: Research notes contain information about a vessel that is often random and unedited but has been deemed useful for future research.